@teastain2 - I did reach out and they haven't answered my query. Thanks though.

@teastain2 as you can see from the pic I posted "normal" version has black wire (-?) on the left and red wire (+?) on the right. The "F" version of the connector has polarity reversed.

@ripple_biz
Thank you for that link to the Adafruit ESP32 uploader.
LilyGO has problems with forking the TFT_eSPI, LVGL and other libraries, so it is nice to be able to upload a .bin of a compiled 'good' program.
-Terry

The other issue is I ordered the non-soldered version, which comes with the connector strips loose in the box.
Generally I prefer to solder in my own when needed, on the pins needed. But as the display overlaps the other side of the board it's going to require some really tricky, careful work to get them in there without damaging anything

The functionality of the board and display is fantastic. I think it's great, just a couple of physical issues for some applications. Ordering with pre-soldered pins is probably a better option for this one.

@thejaxco Ideally a (famous) 18650 type battery.
But any rechargeable battery between 3.3V to 5V volts.

NOTE: I highly recommend AGAINST trying to fit the AMOLED version into the existing T-Display cases.

I just bought one, got it working great with a sketch from Volos https://www.youtube.com/c/VolosProjects, and installed it into one of the T-Display cases I have for my other regular T-Display devices.

It did seem to fit, so I didn't think much until powering it up... But now display only had a thin line on one end (by the buttons). OH NO!!

I took it out of the case and realized that because the acrylic covers the buttons there was way too much pressure on everything. And It somehow broke something in the screen or connector, as now it is simply dead, no image, no line, nada...

The ESP32 still works and I can tell it is running the sketch as one of the buttons toggles the green LED (which still works). But as the other adjusts the brightness (which of course being AMOLED is not a separate backlight), thus since the screen is dead that button does nada.

I contacted support about a replacement screen or something, but have been just getting runaround as no one seems to understand English well enough... They grab one descriptive comment and run with it as if it was the whole issue. 😞

So I am out about $45 CAD after a wopping one hour of use (including programming) and reluctant to purchase anything more from Lilygo due really questionable support options. Oh well... I will just stick with the regular T-Displays that I have I guess.

@behn4m Does this folder have what you need?
https://github.com/Xinyuan-LilyGO/T-Display-S3-AMOLED/tree/main/3D_File

@srx

I am using
T-A7670E/G/SA R2

and it's very accurate.

@crupp

Have you taken a look at the Serial Example from the Github repo ?

@mpice https://meshtastic.discourse.group/t/new-lilygo-t-beam-supreme-product/7474/50

HI!
I don't have a t-dongle-s3 to test, have you tried submitting an
"Issue" here:
https://github.com/Xinyuan-LilyGO/T-Dongle-S3/issues

They are slow to respond so also email them at
sales@lilygo.cc
Ask for Lewishe to respond.
Hope this helps, Terry

This is the "Community" website with support by fellow users, usually...me.

Below is a blow up from LilyGO's product page where you can see the relay part number, Voltage and Current ratings

5vrelay.png

Here is a clearer picture from Amazon:
Screenshot 2023-07-21 at 2.11.23 PM.png

Regards, Terry

@gauste try this repository,
https://github.com/Xinyuan-LilyGO/T-ZigBee
If not, raise an issue on this GitHub and/or email LilyGO directly.
-Terry

@bernie have you programmed it before?
It is certainly do-able, but requires that you have the installed program that is currently running, then modify it, I.e. with Arduino IDE and add the functionality that you want.